Tropical traffic is hard on radiators. Stop-start driving keeps the cooling fan working, sun-side parking dries out hose rubber, and old coolant gradually loses the corrosion inhibitors that protect the water pump and head. The good news is that the system tells on itself well before things turn dramatic.
Our cooling check uses pressure decay, an infrared thermometer and a refractometer — three independent ways of asking whether the system is doing its job, and whether the fluid inside it still has any chemistry left.
What we check
- Coolant freeze-point and pH with a refractometer and test strip
- Pressure decay test on cap, radiator and hoses
- Infrared temperature scan across radiator face
- Thermostat opening behaviour at operating temperature
- Water pump weep-hole inspection and bearing audible check
What we typically replace
- OEM-grade coolant in the colour and chemistry your engine needs
- Thermostat, radiator cap, expansion tank cap
- Upper and lower radiator hoses where elasticity has degraded
- Water pump when documented bearing or seal failure is confirmed
What gets logged in your file
- Photo of old coolant in a glass beside fresh fluid
- Pressure-test reading on the system before and after
- Operating-temperature graph from a road test
- Mileage stamp for the next coolant flush
Coolant is cheap. Cylinder heads are not. We treat that ratio with the seriousness it deserves.